Banda Islands Malukus Travel Guides

Banda Islands,
Group of 10 volcanic islands, c.70 sq mi (180 sq km), E Indonesia, in the Banda Sea, in the Moluccas. The capital and commercial center is Bandanaira, a seaport on Bandanaira island. The largest island in the group is Bandalontar. Nutmeg and mace are the chief products. The islands were discovered and claimed by the Portuguese in 1512. The Dutch ousted the Portuguese in the early 1600s, and the Dutch East India Company assumed control in 1619. Conflict with the English led to the so-called Ambon massacre. Many inhabitants are Christian.

The Banda Islands (Indonesian: Kepulauan Banda) are a group of ten small volcanic islands in the Banda Sea, about 140km south of Seram island and about 2000km east of Java, and are part of the Indonesian province of Maluku. The main town and administrative centre is Bandanaira, located on the island of the same name. They rise out of 4-6 km deep ocean and have a total land area of approximately 180 km². They have a population of about 15,000. Until the mid 19th century the Banda Islands were the world's only source of the spices nutmeg and mace, produced from the nutmeg tree. The islands are also popular destinations for scuba diving and snorkeling.

Before the arrival of Europeans, Banda had an oligarchic form of government led by orang kaya ('powerful men') and the Bandanese had an active and independent role in trade throughout the archipelago. Banda was the world's only source of nutmeg and mace, spices used as flavourings, medicines, preserving agents, that were at the time highly valued in European markets; sold by Arab traders to the Venetians for exorbitant prices. The traders did not divulge the exact location of their source and no European was able to deduce their location.

The first written accounts of Banda are in Suma Oriental, a book written by the Portuguese apothecary Tomé Pires who based in Malacca from 1512 to 1515 but who visited Banda several times. On his first visit, he interviewed the Portuguese and the far more knowledgeable Malay sailors in Malacca. He estimated the early sixteenth century population to be 2500-3000. He reported the Bandanese as being part of an Indonesia-wide trading network and the only native Malukan long-range traders taking cargo to Malacca, although shipments from Banda were also being made by Javanese traders.

In addition to the production of nutmeg and mace, Banda maintained significant entrepot trade; goods that move through Banda include cloves from Ternate and Tidore in the north, bird of paradise feathers from the Aru islands and western New Guinea, massoi bark for traditional medicines, and slaves. In exchange, Banda predominantly received rice and cloth; namely light cotton batik from Java, calicoes from India and ikat from the Lesser Sundas. In 1603, an average quality sarong-sized cloth traded for eighteen kilograms of nutmeg. Some of these textiles were then on-sold, ending up in Halmahera and New Guinea. Coarser ikat from the Lesser Sundas was traded for sago from the Kei Islands, Aru and Seram.

The Portuguese
In August 1511 on behalf of the king of Portugal, Afonso de Albuquerque conquered Malacca, which at the time was the hub of Asian trade. In November of that year, after having secured Malacca and learning of the Bandas' location, Albuquerque sent an expedition of three ships led by his good friend Antonio de Abreu to find them. Malay pilots, either recruited or forcibly conscripted, guided them via Java, the Lesser Sundas and Ambon to Banda, arriving in early 1512. The first Europeans to reach the Bandas, the expedition remained in Banda for about one month, purchasing and filling their ships with nutmeg and mace, as well as and cloves in which Banda had a thriving entrepôt trade.[3] D'Abreu sailed through Ambon while his second in command Francisco Serrão went ahead towards Maluku islands, was shipwrecked and ended up in Ternate.[4] Distracted by hostilities else where in the archipelago, such as Ambon and Ternate, the Portuguese did not return until 1529; a Portuguese trader Captain Garcia landed troops in the Bandas. Five of the Banda islands were within gunshot of each other and he realised that a fort on the main island Neira would give him full control of the group. The Bandanese were however hostile to such a plan and their warlike antics were both costly and tiresome to Garcia who's men were attacked when they attempted to build a fort. From then on, the Portuguese were infrequent visitors to the islands preferring to buy their nutmeg from traders in Malacca.

Unlike other eastern Indonesian islands, such as Ambon, Solor, Ternate and Morotai, the Bandanese displayed no enthusiasm for Christianity or the Europeans who brought it in the sixteenth century, and no serious attempt was made to Christianise the Bandanese.[4] Maintaining their independence, the Bandanese never allowed the Portuguese to build a fort or a permanent post in the islands. Ironically though, it was this lack of ports which brought the Dutch to trade at Banda instead of the clove islands of Ternate and Tidore.

The coming of the Dutch
The Dutch followed the Portuguese to Banda but were to have a much more dominating and lasting presence. Dutch-Bandanese relations were mutually resentful from the outset, with Holland’s first merchants complaining of Bandanese reneging on agreed deliveries and price, and cheating on quantity and quality. For the Bandanese, on the other hand, although they welcomed another competitor purchaser for their spices, the items of trade offered by the Dutch—heavy woollens, and damasks, unwanted manufactured goods, for example—were usually unsuitable in comparison to traditional trade products. The Javanese, Arab and Indian, and Portuguese traders for example brought indispensable items along steel knives, copper, medicines with prized Chinese porcelain.

As much as the Dutch disliked dealing with the Bandanese, the trade was a highly profitable one with spices selling for 300 times the purchase price in Banda. This amply justified the expense and risk in shipping them to Europe. It is even likely that the resulting boom helped finance an artistic renaissance in Holland support the likes of Rembrant van Rijn. The allure of such profits saw an increasing number of Dutch expeditions; it was soon seen that competition from each would eat into all their profits. Thus the competitors united to form the Verreenigde Oostindische Campagnie (VOC) (the ‘Dutch East Indies Company).


Until the early seventeenth century the Banda's were ruled by a group of leading citizens, the orang kaya (literally 'rich men'), each of these was a head of district. At the time nutmeg was one of the "fine spices" kept expensive in Europe by disciplined manipulation of the market, but a desirable commodity for Dutch traders in the ports of India as well; economic historian Fernand Braudel notes that India consumed twice as much as Europe . A number of Banda’s orang kaya were persuaded (or deceived) by the Dutch to sign a treaty granting the Dutch a monopoly on spice purchases. Even though the Bandanese had little understanding of the significance of the treaty known as 'The Eternal Compact', or that not all Bandanese leaders had signed, it would later be used to justify Dutch troops being brought in to defend their monopoly.

The Bandanese soon grew tired of the Dutch actions; the low prices, the useless trade items, and the enforcement of Dutch sole rights to the purchase of the coveted spices. The end of the line for the Bandanese came in 1609 when the Dutch reinforced Fort Nassau on Bandanaira Island. The orang kaya called a meeting with the Dutch admiral and forty of his highest-ranking men, and ambushed and killed them all.


Banda Island Hotels Travel Guides


BANDA ISLAND

The Banda group, about 160 kilometers southeast of Ambon, consists of three larger islands and seven smaller ones, perched on the rim of Indonesia's deepest sea, the Banda Sea. Near Manuk Island, the water reaches more than 6,500 meters depth. Of the three biggest islands Banda, Banda-Neira and Mount Api, the first two are covered with nutmeg trees and other vegetation. The third however, is entirely bare and highly volcanic. The last eruption of Mt. Api occurred only a few years ago. The seas around Banda are the sites of the famous Maluku sea gardens with their bright corals and colorful fish darting through the crystal-clear waters. Facilities for sightseeing, snorkeling and skin-diving are available, as well as clean, comfortable cottages.

Banda saw some of the bloodiest episodes of Maluku's past history during the 17th century. In 1609, the Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) dispatched Verhoeff to the islands to obtain the contested spice trade monopoly at any cost. Confronted by a superior power, people Banda were forced to allow the company to establish a fort, but in that same year Verhoeff was killed together with 45 of his men. The Company retaliated, but peace was not restored. In 1619, V.O.C. Governor-General Jan Pieterszoon Coen arrived at the head of a penal expedition and exterminated the entire population of Banda. The land was divided into lots, called "perken”, and given to former company employees, the "perkiniers", who were obliged to grow nutmeg and sell them at predetermined prices to the company. Slaves did the actual work in the fields. The old "perkenier houses", or what is left of them, and old churches still retain a peculiar colonial character to the port town of Bandaneira today. Two old forts Belgica and Nassau are inside the town limits. Others are found elsewhere on the islands. See also the former Dutch Governor's mansion, the History Museum in Neira, and the huge nutmeg plantation nearby.


Hotel Maulana
Bandanaira
Phone: (0910) 21022
Fax : (0911) 21024
Rooms: 40
Class: *

The Spice Island Divers operation is currently based in the most luxury residence on Banda, Hotel Maulana, owned by Des Alwi the King of Banda. The wonderful waterside positioning of the hotel affords the most spectacular views of Gunung Api. The list of superstars to have graced the island is impressive; Lady Diana, Mick Jagger and Jacques Cousteau have all sought out the peace and tranquility of this exotic hideaway.

The hotel is a traditional colonial design with an expansive patio and outdoor eating areas, overlooking the gardens, just feet from the crystal clear waters of Banda Harbour, built on the site of Pak Des' family pearl factory. There are 50 rooms in the residence, All rooms are air conditioned and have en-suite bathroom facilities. At just $50 per room per night, rates are very reasonable.
Local Delicacies

Food served at the hotel consists of a delightful array of local delicacies, concentrating on fresh fish and local fruit produce.

Some lucky divers may have the chance to meet the owner of the Maulana Hotel, the ruler of Banda himself Mr Des Alwi, and a tour of the town in his company is a pleasure indeed. To see an 80 year old gentleman with such zest and passion for life is intoxicating.









Banda Island Diving Travel Guides


Dive in Banda Islands
The Banda Islands are one of Indonesias top destinations for divers. Both experts and beginners will enjoy themselves here, as the diving ranges from the shallow lagoon between Banda Neira and Gunung Api to the vertical walls of Hatta Island, the most easterly in the group. The Bandas offer stunning tropical scenery, a remarkable history, friendly villages, and some of the globe's most pristine, biologically diverse coral reefs. Scuba is new here, but the pioneering divers didn't have to work hard for their thrills. The undersea world around Ambon and the nearby island of Saparua have top-rate dive sites. Highlights among reef walls here are the presence of large marine life - sharks, enormous turtles, schools of Napoleon Wrasse, giant groupers, tuna, rays, and huge lobsters - neighbors to generous schools of reef fish.

The Banda Islands, about 132 kilometers southeast of Ambon, consists of three larger islands and seven smaller ones, perched on the rim of Indonesia's deepest sea, the Banda Sea. Near the island Manuk, the water reaches a depth of more than 6,500 meters. Of the three biggest islands Banda, Banda-Neira and Gunung Api, the first two are covered with nutmeg trees and other vegetation. The third however, is entirely bare and highly volcanic. The seas around Banda are the site of the famous Maluku sea gardens with their bright corals and colorful fish darting through the crystal- clear waters and makes it suited to dive, snorkel or even just sightseeing.

The Banda Islands Dive Sites :
Sonegat : The nearest site for a decent dive is just five minutes by boat from the hotels. It is in the sonegat-sea arm- between Banda Neira and Gunung Api, just offshore from a little seaside house owned by Des Alwi, the Bandas most famous son. The drop off here is steep and the wall extends down 25 meters to a grey, sandy bottom. There were few fish around, but a good sized dogtooth tuna cruised by and some beautiful blue girdled and emperor angelfish.

Keraka Island : Pulau Keraka or Crab Island is just a few minutes further out, and protects the north entrance of the Neira " Gunung Api sea passage. A nice sandy stretch on the north coast is perfect for picnic. At the south shore, there are some 18 meters down a mini-wall covered with hundreds of large blue-and-yellow tunicates. To the east shore, you may see at 10 meters a good assortment of reef fish and a school of half meter long barracudas.

Sjahrir Island and Batu Kapal : Sjahrir Island or formerly known as Pisang Island (Banana Island) and Batu Kapal (Boat Stone) are just 20 minutes by boat from the hotels on Banda Neira. These two sites combine well for a morning dive, a picnic on the beach, and an afternoon dive.

Gunung Api : In May 1988, the explosion from this mountain has killed of most of the off-shore coral formations around Gunung Api, but amazingly spared many sponges. Some corals are beginning to to grow back, but by and large the seascape remains bleak. There are no walls off Gunung Api. The bottom slopes gradually to 30-35 meters.

Lontar Island : The outer edge of Lontar Island, which represents part of the rim of a sunken caldera, offers several good dive sites.

Batu Belanda : On this site, you will find many barrel and tube sponges and small caves and cracks. The fish were varied and plentiful: a school of snappers, large emperor and blue-girdled angelfish, wrasses, a large pinnate bat-fish and numerous bannerfish

Ai Island : Together with Hatta Island, this island offers Bandas best diving. Both the north coast and the south "west of Ai are ringed with flawless coral walls, which are rugged and full of caves, the kind of habitat that harbors fish.

Hatta Island : Hatta Island is about 25 km by sea from Banda Neira. Skaru atoll, a barely submerged reef a few hundred meters off the southern point of Hatta. On a coral outcrop, watch the passing parade of Unicornfish, Fusiliersm Jack Fish and Rainbow Runners, often seen Whitetip Sharks (almost 2 meters) and Dogtoothed Tuna, Napolean Wrasse, and Hawksbill Turtles.

Getting There
To Ambon :usually fly from Denpasar Bali via Ujung Pandang.
To Banda Islands :fly from Ambon by small plane/Merpati Airlines. Or you could try this one :
Flying from Ujung Pandang to Ambon. Then you'd have to wait for the ferry (once every two weeks), and stay at the Bandas for 17 days until the ferry returned.

Where to Stay
There are plenty of small, very inexpensive places to stay around Bandas that you can choose to stay with varied price and facilities

Moving Around
Many days can be spent around these lush islands. Spices are still grown here and the local people still make traditional food and snacks using these once very rare and sought after spices. Short walks to see the forts left behind by the Dutch, visits plantations of nutmeg. The trek up Gunung Api will surely leave a lasting impression with amazing panoramic views if the islands surrounding Banda Niera.

Dining Guide
There are only a few small restaurants with varied of Indonesian foods.

Souvenir Tips
Try to buy some local souvenirs here or traditional foods and snacks.

Other Things to See or Do
For non divers need not worry about boredom, beside snorkeling in the lagoon right off Banda Neira, there are tennis courts and go on a short pleasure trip around Banda Neira. For those who bring their children, they can swim in calm waters or watch the sharks, fish and turtles in two enclosures in the lagoon.

Travel Tips
* Diving is possible all year round, but the monsoon may restrict your choice of dive sites from July to September,
* Diving is usually comfortable, with good visibility and calm waters, but some of the dive sites are subject to conditions that make them suitable for experienced divers only,
* Don't forget to equipped yourself with diving equipments, surf board and snorkel,
* Try to hire equipment from larger firms as these tend to be more reliable, but remember the responsibility of checking the equipment is ultimately yours.
* Bring a bathing suit and extra clothings.


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